T\u00fcrkistan: Ge\u00e7mi\u015fi Hat\u0131rlatan, Birli\u011fi B\u00fcy\u00fcten Yolculuk<\/p>\n
\u201cBaz\u0131 yolculuklar vard\u0131r, insan\u0131n i\u00e7ine do\u011far; gitmeden \u00f6nce bile ruhunu \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131r.\u201d
T\u00fcrkistan benim i\u00e7in tam da b\u00f6yleydi. \u00c7ocuklu\u011fumdan beri atlaslarda parlayan bir masal \u00fclkesi\u2026 Atayurdun kokusunu duymak, ecdad\u0131n izine basmak, tarihin ak\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftiren nefesleri hissetmek: K\u0131smet bug\u00fcneymi\u015f.<\/p>\n
U\u00e7a\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00dcrgen\u00e7 semalar\u0131na iner inmez kalbimde tarifsiz bir s\u0131z\u0131, g\u00f6zlerimde tuhaf bir sevin\u00e7 belirdi. Buras\u0131, Harzem\u015fahlar\u0131n anavatan\u0131; yi\u011fitlik, feraset, zulme boyun e\u011fmeyen duru\u015fun topra\u011f\u0131\u2026 Daha ilk ad\u0131mda, sanki y\u00fczy\u0131llard\u0131r unuttu\u011fum bir ses \u201cHo\u015f geldin!\u201d diye f\u0131s\u0131ldad\u0131 kulaklar\u0131ma.<\/p>\n
G\u00fcne\u015f do\u011fmadan yollara d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck. Hive\u2026 Ne End\u00fcl\u00fcs\u2019\u00fcn ihti\u015fam\u0131, ne Masar\u0131k\u2019\u0131n ta\u015f sokaklar\u0131\u2026 Hi\u00e7biri buran\u0131n ruhuna benzemez. Adeta masal\u0131n i\u00e7inden \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir \u015fehir. Duvarlar\u0131 toprak ama ge\u00e7mi\u015fi \u00e7elikten\u2026 Sokaklarda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken kameraya s\u0131\u011fmayan bir g\u00fczellik, kelimelere meydan okuyan bir ihti\u015fam vard\u0131. Her kubbenin alt\u0131nda bir dua, her kap\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerinde bir asalet gizliydi.<\/p>\n
Harzem halk\u0131 sanki Anadolu\u2019nun \u015fefkatli y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc ta\u015f\u0131r. T\u00fcrk\u00e7eleri bize yak\u0131n; kelimeler tan\u0131d\u0131k, ses benzer, g\u00f6n\u00fcl zaten ayn\u0131d\u0131r. Yolda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z ya\u015fl\u0131 bir amca, aksakall\u0131 bir bilge gibi \u201cBiz hep ayn\u0131 milletin torunlar\u0131y\u0131z\u201d deyince i\u00e7imden bir \u015fey koptu: Biz birbirimizi unutmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k, sadece uzak d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck.<\/p>\n
\u015eehrin meydan\u0131nda y\u00fckselen Mert Celaleddin Harzem\u015fah heykeli insan\u0131n y\u00fcre\u011fini kavuruyor. At\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde, \u0130nd\u00fcs\u2019\u00fcn k\u00f6p\u00fckl\u00fc sular\u0131na atlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 an\u0131 ta\u015fland\u0131rm\u0131\u015flar. G\u00f6\u011fe uzanan bak\u0131\u015f\u0131yla sanki h\u00e2l\u00e2 Cengiz Han\u2019a hayk\u0131r\u0131yor: \u201c Ben daha bitmedim!\u201d<\/p>\n
Cengiz\u2019in ona duydu\u011fu sayg\u0131y\u0131, \u201cD\u00f6rt o\u011flum olaca\u011f\u0131na bir Celaleddin\u2019im olsayd\u0131\u201d diyecek kadar a\u00e7\u0131k etmesini burada \u00f6\u011frendim. Ve ne ac\u0131d\u0131r ki, bizim tarih kitaplar\u0131nda ad\u0131 ge\u00e7mezken, bu topraklarda destan gibi anlat\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Ertesi g\u00fcn K\u0131z\u0131lkum \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fc bize hem bir s\u0131nav hem bir \u00f6\u011f\u00fct verdi. Ufkun k\u0131pk\u0131z\u0131l \u00e7izgisi, r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n kavurdu\u011fu kumlar\u2026 Bazen tarih bir kitaptan de\u011fil, bir \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn sessizli\u011finden okunur.<\/p>\n
Ve nihayet Buhara\u2026 Bir \u015fehrin kokusu olur mu? Buras\u0131 ilmin kokusudur, irfan\u0131n nefesidir. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyu yeti\u015ftirdi\u011fi alimlerle insanl\u0131k tarihini ayd\u0131nlatan bir kandil.<\/p>\n
Ard\u0131ndan Semerkand\u2026 Timur\u2019un g\u00f6k kubbeye meydan okuyan miras\u0131, Registan\u2019\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcleyen geometrisi\u2026 Her ta\u015f, her s\u00fcsleme bir imparatorun de\u011fil, bir milletin kudretini hayk\u0131r\u0131yor. Timur\u2019un ruhunu burada hissetmemek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn m\u00fc? Ad\u0131mlar\u0131m\u0131 h\u0131zland\u0131ran r\u00fczgar bile sanki \u201cBen h\u00e2l\u00e2 buraday\u0131m\u201d diye m\u0131r\u0131ldan\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n
Sonra yol bizi Kazakistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131na, T\u00fcrkistan \u015fehrine g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc. T\u00fcrk d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n kalbi burada at\u0131yor. G\u00f6\u011fe do\u011fru y\u00fckselen t\u00fcrbesiyle Hoca Ahmed Yesev\u00ee, g\u00f6n\u00fcllere \u0131\u015f\u0131k yakan bir g\u00fcne\u015f gibi duruyor kar\u015f\u0131mda.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrbenin avlusunda derin bir s\u00fck\u00fbt \u00e7\u00f6kt\u00fc \u00fczerime. Buras\u0131 bir mek\u00e2n de\u011fil, bir h\u00e2l\u2026 Sanki y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca dualar burada birikmi\u015f de bug\u00fcn \u00fczerime d\u00f6k\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Dizlerim titredi; insan, atalar\u0131n\u0131n duas\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda g\u00fc\u00e7s\u00fczle\u015fiyor.<\/p>\n
Aslan Baba\u2026 Tuhaf ama tarif edilemez bir huzur var o t\u00fcrbede. Kap\u0131n\u0131n e\u015fi\u011finden i\u00e7eri girerken bir anda b\u00fct\u00fcn gurur, b\u00fct\u00fcn tela\u015f, b\u00fct\u00fcn d\u00fcnya daral\u0131p, insan\u0131 kalbine \u00e7ekiyor. Aslan Baba\u2019y\u0131 g\u00f6rmeden Yesev\u00ee\u2019ye var\u0131lmaz derlerdi, \u015fimdi anlad\u0131m. Buras\u0131 bir menzil, \u00f6teki vuslatt\u0131.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrkistan co\u011frafyas\u0131 bana bir kez daha \u015funu \u00f6\u011fretti: Biz ayr\u0131 devletlerde olabiliriz, ama ayn\u0131 duan\u0131n \u00e7ocuklar\u0131y\u0131z. Tarih bizi savurmu\u015f olabilir ama ba\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 koparamam\u0131\u015f. Her \u015fehir, her ta\u015f, her t\u00fcrbe \u201cUnutma, nereden geldi\u011fini bil\u201d der gibi.<\/p>\n
Bu yolculuk bir gezi de\u011fil, bir silkini\u015fti. Bir milletin haf\u0131zas\u0131na dokunmakt\u0131. \u00d6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck ate\u015finin nas\u0131l yand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, nas\u0131l hi\u00e7 s\u00f6nmedi\u011fini g\u00f6rmekti.<\/p>\n
T\u00fcrkistan\u2019a giden geri d\u00f6nemez; d\u00f6nerse de eskisi gibi biri olarak d\u00f6nmez\u2026<\/p>\n
\u201cT\u00fcrkistan bize \u015funu \u00f6\u011fretti: Ge\u00e7mi\u015fimizi hat\u0131rlad\u0131k\u00e7a b\u00fcy\u00fcr, bir oldu\u011fumuz s\u00fcrece sonsuza dek y\u00fcr\u00fcr\u00fcz.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
T\u00fcrkistan: Ge\u00e7mi\u015fi Hat\u0131rlatan, Birli\u011fi B\u00fcy\u00fcten Yolculuk \u201cBaz\u0131 yolculuklar vard\u0131r, insan\u0131n i\u00e7ine do\u011far; gitmeden \u00f6nce bile ruhunu \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131r.\u201dT\u00fcrkistan benim i\u00e7in tam da b\u00f6yleydi. \u00c7ocuklu\u011fumdan beri atlaslarda parlayan bir masal \u00fclkesi\u2026 Atayurdun kokusunu duymak, ecdad\u0131n izine basmak, tarihin ak\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 de\u011fi\u015ftiren nefesleri hissetmek: K\u0131smet bug\u00fcneymi\u015f. U\u00e7a\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00dcrgen\u00e7 semalar\u0131na iner inmez kalbimde tarifsiz bir s\u0131z\u0131, g\u00f6zlerimde tuhaf bir sevin\u00e7 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":10622,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[87,5764],"class_list":["post-21279","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kose-yazilari","tag-koseyazisi","tag-serifebozoglaneker"],"yoast_head":"\n